October 13, 2009
Diamonds That Sparkle in Dim Light
Jackie recently commented that she had noticed that some diamonds sparkled really well even in dim lighting. She asked why some do and some do not.
Sparkle in a diamond is a function of its cut, which is a matter of proportions and not shape. A well cut diamond will return light to the viewers eyes much like mirror would.
An ideal cut diamond will have the most sparkle in any lighting condition. It will also have the most sparkle in a low lighting situation. That is provided that the diamond is clean.
The following diagram shows how a well cut diamond returns light and how a deep, or shallow poorly cut diamond leaks light and does not return it to the viewers eyes.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
September 25, 2009
Why Would a 1 Carat Diamond Appear Smaller Than Another?
Samantha recently remarked that her friend’s diamond looked smaller than hers even though it was a 1 carat diamond like hers.
What most consumers may not understand is that carat weight is a weight designation not one that describes the physical size. A one carat diamond if it is cut deep will appear smaller because the weight is more vertical than a one carat diamond that is cut shallower and more horizontal.
This brings up an important associated subject, the importance of cut. An ideal cut diamond having the right proportions will return the most light and have the most brilliance and sparkle. A diamond that is cut too deep or too shallow will appear smaller or larger than the ideal cut diamond of the same weight and will not have as much sparkle or brilliance. Diamonds that are cut too deep or shallow will also have a lower value than an ideal cut.
The following diagram will illustrate light return in the different cut proportions of a diamond.
More than just size the cut is the most important aspect in defining brilliance and sparkle. What would you rather have?
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
September 21, 2009
What is Moissanite?
Randy just heard about moissanite and asked to know more about it.
Moissanite is a lab created gemstone. It is made in the laboratory from carbon and silicon using heat and pressure.
It is commonly used as a diamond simulant, meaning that it is a diamond substitute but is not a diamond. It may be the simulant that looks the closest to a diamond.
It is carbon based like a diamond and its thermal conductivity is similar to a diamond. It will fool conventional thermal diamond testers and will register as a diamond. You would need a moissanite tester to confirm that it is not a diamond.
It has a refractive index is also similar to a diamonds and will appear as brilliant. Unlike a diamond it is double refractive whereas a diamond is single refractive. A moissanite has more “fire” (dispersion) than a diamond. It also appears a little darker in the J-L color range with a tinge of yellow to green.
It has a hardness of 9.5 on the Mohs scale so it it very durable. Diamonds are a 10 on the Mohs scale.
As a lab created gemstone it is not a diamond and is therefore not as valuable as a diamond. It is approximately one-twentieth the value of diamonds.
Moissanites because its properties are similar to a diamond it can be considered a “fabulous fake” and it may be just the right fit for some people.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
August 20, 2009
The Many Choices In Men’s Wedding Bands
Chad came in looking for a wedding band and was astounded by the choices set before him. Men’s wedding bands were seen as kind of an afterthought. There are innumerable ring choices for women, but men, until recently were left out of having as many choices.
Now there are a greater number of choices in materials that are not the traditional choices of gold, silver and platinum.
Men now have other metal choices such as tungsten, titanium, palladium, stainless steel, and ceramic. There are even combination of these different materials to create even more ring designs like mokume. Diamonds and gemstones can even be added for more bling.
It may actually be difficult now to choose a ring because there are simply too many choices, but having choice is much better than having none. Enjoy the quest.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
August 13, 2009
Are All Ideal Cut Diamonds the Same?
Cut graded dossier certificate
Lots of light loss (red) in an ideal cut diamond
Very little light loss (red) in a nice ideal cut diamond
This question has been posed by several people from time to time, and most people think it is true.
The answer is no, they are NOT all the same.
The actual answer is more complicated. On paper based on the certificates they come with they may appear to be the same but there are differences. Sometimes the differences are major.
Even AGS (American Gem Society) and GIA (Gemological Institute of America) two of the most accurate and respected grading laboratories do not have the same criteria to determine the ideal cut. It is our observation is that AGS is stricter in their cut grading than GIA.
There are several machines that will visually assess light return and light loss in a diamond. They are the Idealscope, Firescope, our Diamond Photoscope and equipment by GCAL (Gem Certification and Assessment Lab).
Using these equipment you can actually determine which of several ideal cut diamonds are better. The range can actually be quite diverse and with the naked eye once you know what to look for you can actually see the difference.
To choose just by looking at the certificate information is not the best method to buy your diamond if you are looking for the nicest one. You should have someone with access to one of the previously mentioned equipment to verify the best light return before you pay for that diamond if you want the most beautiful, brilliant, fiery diamond.
Russell Oshita,
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
July 31, 2009
The Amazing Aid of Computers For Making Jewelry
CAD, CAM, Computer Aided Design and Computer Aided Manufacture, are amazing tools to making fine jewelry.
What was once impossible or nearly impossible or took a great master craftsman to create is now made possible with the aid of computers.
A design is created on the computer and a rendering is generated. You can make adjustments and changes to the rendering.
Once the rendering is accepted a three dimensional wax model is made from the computer rendering. You can now inspect it in life size. changes can be also made at this stage.
If the wax is approved it is then cast and finished.
If someone told you the design of your dreams was impossible, look into finding some one that can help you with the aid of a computer. You can have that beautiful one of a kind jewelry you always wanted.
computer rendering
Finished diamond ring
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
July 23, 2009
The Most Secure Chain Clasps
Conventional chain clasps are spring rings and lobster clasps. Theydo the job sufficiently but will at some time fail to work properly. The spring ring is not as strong and if subjected to a strong yank will detach or break. Lobster clasps are stronger and can withstand harder pulls but occasionally the spring detaches and it no longer works.
Denise came in to have the clasp changed on her diamond pendant because the lobster clasp failed and she almost lost her pendant. The diamond pendant was sentimental and valuable and she wanted a more secure clasp for her peace of mind.
We presented her with three choices. These clasps may not be as pretty and can be cumbersome to operate but is definitely more secure.
Denise chose the slide lock clasp.
Spring and lobster clasps 
J Clasp
Slide lock 
Overlap clasp 
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
July 17, 2009
The Fragileness of Invisible Set Round Diamonds
Susan approached us with a repair job. One of the side diamonds on her tanzanite ring was missing and she needed to have it replaced.
When we examined it closely we noticed that it was an invisible set round diamond that was missing. It is called invisible set because the diamond appears to be floating with no apparent appendages like prongs to hold it in place.
While this is aesthetically interesting and pleasing to look at it is not the most practical way to set a diamond. To set it tiny grooves are cut under the girdle of the diamond. The metal is then pushed into these grooves to secure it in place.
The problem occurs when it is worn and banged around a little, these tiny grooves are not deep enough to hold it very securely and many of them eventually fall out.
For Susan we are going to remove the diamonds and bezel set them. Bezel setting is one of the most secure ways of setting a diamond that will also still look similar in appearance to the invisi
ble set style using the same tube structure.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
July 11, 2009
Share and Share Alike
Julie had inherited her mother’s ring. It was an antique-looking simple diamond ring that her mother received from her grandmother. The problem was that her two sisters also loved that ring.
There were a close family and squabbles were few. They had thought about taking turns using it but they had lived states apart and sharing it was not a convenient option.
They explained their problem to us and asked if we could help them. We told them we could mold and duplicate the ring so each could have a ring. It may have not all been the original but it was the next best thing.
They were delighted with the prospect and we made each one a duplicate. The original was held in a deposit box to be inherited by the last surviving sister.
As they were equally loved they each shared equally in memory.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
July 9, 2009
Moisannite a Fabulous Fake, Unfortunately
There are many diamond simulants in existence. Simulants are other kinds of stones that have the appearance like diamonds, but are not diamonds. One of the latest is moisannite which will even fool conventional thermal diamond testers.
Darryl had excitedly come into our store asking us if what he found was a diamond. He had already gone to another jewelry store and they used a diamond tester which said it was a diamond. They told him that there are simulants like moisannite that will register as a diamond and that you need additional equipment to verify if it really is a diamond and not a moisannite.
We first used our diamond tester and it did indeed register as a diamond. As carbon based simulant, moisannite will have similar thermal conductivity as diamonds and will read positive on diamond thermal testers.
Using the moisannite tester it then registered as a moisannite and not a diamond.
Darryl was disappointed. Unfortunately it was not a diamond. Fortunately he did not pay for it.
Russell Oshita
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
July 2, 2009
Diamond Earrings Badly Misrepresented
Integrity is an important consideration in any business and we try very hard to uphold it in our industry, by educating our customers and disclosing all pertinent information on any jewelry piece.
From this perspective it is appalling to see what some jewelers in our industry do.
Matt’s girlfriend had just purchased a pair of diamond hoop earrings from a downtown jewelry store and he was interested to know the quality of the diamonds so he brought it to us.
We counted 34 diamonds in each hoop earring, each a 3 point diamond by measurement. This would make it a total of approximately 2.04 carats. The color grade looked to be about a J or K and through the microscope the clarity grade was in the I1-2 category.
Matt said that the diamond earrings were sold as 3 carats total weight, G color and SI clarity grade. This would have made it 1 carat more in weight 3-4 color grades off and 2-3 grades off in clarity.
They had paid $2500 for the earrings thinking it was 3 carats total weight, which would have been a reasonable price if the information was accurate. As a 2 carat total weight and lower color and clarity than represented, a reasonable price should have been $1500. They had over-paid by a $1000.
Unfortunately most consumers would assume that the seller is telling the truth and never get a second opinion. They may never know that they paid much more than they should. Nor that they did not even get the grade they thought they paid for.
We do not know how much of this goes on. The consumer without knowledge of jewelry quality is vulnerable to unscrupulous jewelers.
It may be best to gain at least a rudimentary knowledge of jewelry quality, get second opinions or just find a jeweler you can trust.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
June 29, 2009
EGL Certificate Not Accurate
Mark had his diamond ring resized in another store and called to see if we could help him identify his diamond. He was concerned that it did not look the same as he remembered. He said it had a certificate so we told him to bring it in. With a certificate it is usually a simple, quick confirmation using the microscope to confirm the plotting of the imperfections.
Even with our having over thirty years of experience it was still surprising what we saw. The diamond was graded by EGL (European Gemological Laboratory) International and came with a plotting. Upon inspection we noticed that there was an obvious omission on the plotting of a large fracture located in the middle of the stone. There was no way the imperfection could not be noticed. All other imperfections toward the edges were listed and the measurements and the weight coincided with the information on the certificate.
The diamond was a listed as 1.01 ct. SI1 clarity grade , H color. The diamond as inspected under the microscope would have been graded as an I1 clarity grade taking in account the fracture not listed.
Within the industry it is known that EGL is not graded quite as strictly as AGS (American Gem Society) or GIA (Gemological Institute of America). Further inspection revealed that the color grade was a J color. The lower color and clarity grade of the diamond would have lowered its value by $3000.
The diamond was the one listed on the certificate but with the appalling omission of the fracture. Mark had paid more than he should have for the actual grade of the diamond and to make matters worse did not get the grade that he thought he purchased.
Unfortunately the average consumer does not know enough about diamonds and the industry to always make the proper decision.
We have written an article on Oceanic Time Warner’s Around Hawaii website to help people understand the information about diamonds necessary to make a wise purchase. You can follow this link to read the complete article.
Russell Oshita
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
June 18, 2009
Blackened Engagement Ring
My fiancé gave me an engagement ring which needed to be resized. We brought it back to the store, and they said it would take a few days. On a Friday afternoon, the owner called me and asked how late would I be able to stop by, and I told him I would just pick it up late Saturday afternoon. I had the ring only a few days, and it started to tarnish. In one week, it was absolutely black – it looked like it was set in black nickel, even the prongs. I took the ring to a reputable jeweler, and she said she had never seen anything quite like it. There are chunks of bonding agent actually stuck in the gaps underneath the diamonds. The main diamond is very loose and can be turned with my fingers – you don’t even need tweezers, and there is still a rough spot in one of the baguettes. The jeweler said he had to remake the ring because the original size was so off, yet when I had it for the first week, it didn’t tarnish. I just want to take it back and go somewhere else. What is your take on this whole situation?
D. Fenley
Hi D,
It is a little difficult to answer your question at the moment because I need to get a little bit more information to properly help you.
Where do you live? It would be easier if you lived in Hawaii and brought the ring to us to inspect. If not there are some questions that you can help me with. Possibly send us a picture of the ring.
Could you tell me what kind of metal is used to make the ring?
Why was the ring remade instead of resizing? Was the original size far off from your ring size?
Did the jeweler explain why “bonding agent” used?
If the jeweler that did the resize is the one that sold you the ring you should not have a problem returning the ring.
Your answers will help me to better understand your exact situation.
Russell Oshita, the diammonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc
Diamonds Hawaii
Hi, Russell. I appreciate the prompt response. Nick had purchased the ring from Charleston Gold & Diamond. They had resized the ring three times. When we got it back the last time, it tarnished within a few days. You could also hear that the diamond was so loose in the head that I could turn it with my fingertips and you could see it move at least 1/8”. The store rep claimed that they had ‘a bad batch of rhodium.’ I took the ring to another jeweler for examination, and she told me that they, too, have had that experience, but that it happens immediately. There were lumps of bonding gold stuck in the ring underneath the diamond, the ring isn’t even symmetrical to the naked eye, and there is a chip out of one of the baguettes that you can feel with your fingertip. I believe the ring is made of 14k gold with a .93 ct VS1 H diamond. I think they charged him around $6700. The original size of the ring was a 4.0, then he told them a 5.0. I took it in for resizing, which they claim they did. I asked them for cleats inside the band, as I have broken that finger and the knuckle is larger; this prevents the diamond from sliding around to the back. The jeweler insisted that I didn’t need it, and I don’t remember the new size – I think it’s a 6.5 and still doesn’t fit properly.
We took the ring back and just asked for our money back. It’s very, very poor quality in workmanship, not even apprentice work. They agreed to swap out the diamond for a new one (I don’t particularly care for solitaires) and refund him the cost of his ring. I will send you a photo of the ring. Let me know what you think.
We will be taking the new loose diamond to Paula Harrison in Mt. Pleasant, SC – she is a very good friend of mine and a jeweler with the highest reputation. Let me know what you think of the ring…
I appreciate your help,
Best regards,
D. Fenley
PS: Pictures to follow separately.
Hi D.
I am glad you were able to resolve your problem and you did not have to keep the ring. I am still very interested in seeing the pictures of the ring.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
June 12, 2009
Pendant Enhancers Offers Flexibility
Susie wanted to wear her ruby pendant with her pearl necklace and as a standard pendant on a chain without making either one looking out of place.
Fortunately there is a pendant enhancer that opens up to fit between pearls when mounted on the necklace. It will also fit on a regular chain to wear as a normal pendant.
The pendant enhancers are wonderful accessories that allows the flexiblity of being used for different purposes and looks. They help bridge the best of both worlds.
Russell Oshita
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
May 13, 2009
Diamonds Can Chip
Helen called today to ask if diamonds can chip. She was under the impression that diamonds were the hardest substance so how can it chip.
We told her that a diamond is indeed the hardest substance in the world. Meaning that as the hardest it can scratch any other substance, unfortunately it is not the toughest. It can chip. It is sometimes chipped when the diamond is being set in a mounting. Other times it is chipped when it is worn.
Due to its hardness a diamond is fairly durable. If you took care of your diamond it can have the same beautiful look for generations.
Russell Oshita the diamonddude 
The Diamond Specialists, Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
April 23, 2009
A Fortunate Find
Recently, Cynthia, a past customer of ours excitedly walked into our store. She had found a pendant on the ground that looked like a diamond and wanted to know if it was really a diamond or a cubic zirconia.
With our knowledge and experience we can usually tell just by looking at the stone and it looked like it could be a real diamond. To confirm it positively we used a diamond tester and it indicated that it was a diamond. We also tested it with a moisannite tester to rule out that it was not a moisannite, because moisannites can fool diamond testers.
It was indeed a diamond that weighed ¾ carat which was worth about $4000. What a fortunate find! I guess some people are just born lucky!
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists, Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
