July 23, 2009
The Most Secure Chain Clasps
Conventional chain clasps are spring rings and lobster clasps. Theydo the job sufficiently but will at some time fail to work properly. The spring ring is not as strong and if subjected to a strong yank will detach or break. Lobster clasps are stronger and can withstand harder pulls but occasionally the spring detaches and it no longer works.
Denise came in to have the clasp changed on her diamond pendant because the lobster clasp failed and she almost lost her pendant. The diamond pendant was sentimental and valuable and she wanted a more secure clasp for her peace of mind.
We presented her with three choices. These clasps may not be as pretty and can be cumbersome to operate but is definitely more secure.
Denise chose the slide lock clasp.
Spring and lobster clasps 
J Clasp
Slide lock 
Overlap clasp 
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
July 17, 2009
The Fragileness of Invisible Set Round Diamonds
Susan approached us with a repair job. One of the side diamonds on her tanzanite ring was missing and she needed to have it replaced.
When we examined it closely we noticed that it was an invisible set round diamond that was missing. It is called invisible set because the diamond appears to be floating with no apparent appendages like prongs to hold it in place.
While this is aesthetically interesting and pleasing to look at it is not the most practical way to set a diamond. To set it tiny grooves are cut under the girdle of the diamond. The metal is then pushed into these grooves to secure it in place.
The problem occurs when it is worn and banged around a little, these tiny grooves are not deep enough to hold it very securely and many of them eventually fall out.
For Susan we are going to remove the diamonds and bezel set them. Bezel setting is one of the most secure ways of setting a diamond that will also still look similar in appearance to the invisi
ble set style using the same tube structure.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
June 18, 2009
Blackened Engagement Ring
My fiancé gave me an engagement ring which needed to be resized. We brought it back to the store, and they said it would take a few days. On a Friday afternoon, the owner called me and asked how late would I be able to stop by, and I told him I would just pick it up late Saturday afternoon. I had the ring only a few days, and it started to tarnish. In one week, it was absolutely black – it looked like it was set in black nickel, even the prongs. I took the ring to a reputable jeweler, and she said she had never seen anything quite like it. There are chunks of bonding agent actually stuck in the gaps underneath the diamonds. The main diamond is very loose and can be turned with my fingers – you don’t even need tweezers, and there is still a rough spot in one of the baguettes. The jeweler said he had to remake the ring because the original size was so off, yet when I had it for the first week, it didn’t tarnish. I just want to take it back and go somewhere else. What is your take on this whole situation?
D. Fenley
Hi D,
It is a little difficult to answer your question at the moment because I need to get a little bit more information to properly help you.
Where do you live? It would be easier if you lived in Hawaii and brought the ring to us to inspect. If not there are some questions that you can help me with. Possibly send us a picture of the ring.
Could you tell me what kind of metal is used to make the ring?
Why was the ring remade instead of resizing? Was the original size far off from your ring size?
Did the jeweler explain why “bonding agent” used?
If the jeweler that did the resize is the one that sold you the ring you should not have a problem returning the ring.
Your answers will help me to better understand your exact situation.
Russell Oshita, the diammonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc
Diamonds Hawaii
Hi, Russell. I appreciate the prompt response. Nick had purchased the ring from Charleston Gold & Diamond. They had resized the ring three times. When we got it back the last time, it tarnished within a few days. You could also hear that the diamond was so loose in the head that I could turn it with my fingertips and you could see it move at least 1/8”. The store rep claimed that they had ‘a bad batch of rhodium.’ I took the ring to another jeweler for examination, and she told me that they, too, have had that experience, but that it happens immediately. There were lumps of bonding gold stuck in the ring underneath the diamond, the ring isn’t even symmetrical to the naked eye, and there is a chip out of one of the baguettes that you can feel with your fingertip. I believe the ring is made of 14k gold with a .93 ct VS1 H diamond. I think they charged him around $6700. The original size of the ring was a 4.0, then he told them a 5.0. I took it in for resizing, which they claim they did. I asked them for cleats inside the band, as I have broken that finger and the knuckle is larger; this prevents the diamond from sliding around to the back. The jeweler insisted that I didn’t need it, and I don’t remember the new size – I think it’s a 6.5 and still doesn’t fit properly.
We took the ring back and just asked for our money back. It’s very, very poor quality in workmanship, not even apprentice work. They agreed to swap out the diamond for a new one (I don’t particularly care for solitaires) and refund him the cost of his ring. I will send you a photo of the ring. Let me know what you think.
We will be taking the new loose diamond to Paula Harrison in Mt. Pleasant, SC – she is a very good friend of mine and a jeweler with the highest reputation. Let me know what you think of the ring…
I appreciate your help,
Best regards,
D. Fenley
PS: Pictures to follow separately.
Hi D.
I am glad you were able to resolve your problem and you did not have to keep the ring. I am still very interested in seeing the pictures of the ring.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
June 6, 2009
A Poor Job of Resizing a Ring
Julie had bought a diamond engagement ring from another store and had them resize it. She brought it in to us because the store that resized it said they could not make it better. Wearing the ring was very uncomfortable.
After taking a look at the ring we noticed that it was oval in shape. The ring looked like the bottom of it was just flattened and the sides of the ring bothered the fingers next to the ring. It looked uncomfortable.
In Hawaii people on average are smaller and ring sizes average about a size 5. Most rings are made in a standard size 6-7. Julie was a 4 1/2.
The ring was made oval because of the diamonds set on the side of the center diamond. Resizing the ring smaller would sometimes loosen the diamonds and they would fall out. The jeweler that originally resized it did not want to deal with the side diamonds and did not work on resizing it properly.
Our jeweler was able to make the ring round and re-tighten the diamonds on the side.
It is now comfortable, beautiful and appreciated. All is well in the world.
Russell Oshita, the diamondude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
June 3, 2009
Inspecting Your Tennis Bracelet
Monika had almost lost her 4 ct diamond tennis bracelet when it slipped off her wrist. She was lucky that it had hit her foot and she had noticed it.
We took a look at her bracelet and found that her clasp was not working properly. It was an easy adjustment to make it secure again. Both the clasp and the safety attachment had to be adjusted.
Most diamond tennis bracelets are constructed the same way in the clasp department and should be checked periodically to make sure it is working properly. With constant use it will become loose.
You should gently pull the bracelet at the clasp area. If it comes out without resistance it should definitely be adjusted. The safety latch should also be checked and adjusted if necessary.
Periodic inspection will insure that you have a long time to enjoy your tennis bracelet.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
May 19, 2009
Thank Goodness for Ring Guards
Agnes came into our store to have her diamond ring cut off her finger. It was not that it was tight but she had developed arthritis and her knuckle became larger where the ring would not come off. She was concerned that after we re-sized her ring to go over her knuckle it will be too loose and spin a lot.
We suggested several alternatives. Fortunately the size difference between her knuckle and the inside of her finger was not a great deal of difference, just about a 3/4 size difference. For her we suggested using a ring guard. It is a clip-like piece of metal that acts as a spring inside the ring and will take up the looseness once it passes the knuckle.
In extreme cases we recommend a special hinged band that opens up to go past the knuckle and locks to the proper size with no looseness.
Ring guards make for a more comfortable fit and works very well for the people that really need it. Agnes was happy that there was a solution for her problem because she still enjoys wearing her diamond ring.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude 
The Diamond Specialists, Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
May 13, 2009
Diamonds Can Chip
Helen called today to ask if diamonds can chip. She was under the impression that diamonds were the hardest substance so how can it chip.
We told her that a diamond is indeed the hardest substance in the world. Meaning that as the hardest it can scratch any other substance, unfortunately it is not the toughest. It can chip. It is sometimes chipped when the diamond is being set in a mounting. Other times it is chipped when it is worn.
Due to its hardness a diamond is fairly durable. If you took care of your diamond it can have the same beautiful look for generations.
Russell Oshita the diamonddude 
The Diamond Specialists, Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
May 7, 2009
HAVE YOUR RING INSPECTED
Michele came in today to resize her diamond ring. As standard take-in procedure we started to document the details of the ring on a receipt. A plotting was made for diamond for identification. Its size was recorded. The side diamonds were also counted and listed on the receipt.
Upon further inspection with a magnifier we noticed that the base of the prongs that was holding the one carat diamond had a crack running all around it. It was not visible to the naked eye. If this was left as it was it would have been just a matter of time before the prongs broke off and diamond would have been lost.
It is essential to have your ring professionally inspected periodically to prevent these types of disastrous consequences.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists, Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
May 3, 2009
Concerns About Jewelry Left for Repair
About once a week we get questions about jewelry left in a store for repair. People have great concerns about getting back the same diamond that they have had for many years.
It is a very legitimate concern. Everyone would like to be sure that they keep what they always have had, but when it is left in a store they do not know how they can get those assurances. They have heard enough horror stories to be very cautious about their jewelry. For many people years have passed without having their jewelry repaired for fear that it may be lost.
We have published an article on the Time Warner Oceanic Cable Around Hawaii website which details the process and procedures to ensure that you get back what you leave for repair. Follow this link for the details.
We hope that for those that have a need to repair their precious jewelry, we have helped disperse some of the fear and allow you to be able to enjoy wearing your jewelry again.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists, Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
April 30, 2009
Response to Cheryl C. about RING CLEANING
Cheryl C. writes, “My ring looks gunky. It always gets like that. Maybe, it’s my hand lotion? How do I clean my ring?”
Cheryl,
The best way is to have it done professionally. It is best to take it to someone that will inspect the prongs to make sure everything is secure and then polish and clean the ring so it looks brand new. Once a year is a good schedule to keep.
In between the professional cleaning you can inspect and clean it yourself, the only thing most people cannot do is to polish the metal.
Cleaning should be done at least once a week using a nonabrasive cleaner such as ammonia, Simple Green, Windex or any grease cutter that will not leave a residue. Squirt the cleaning solution on your ring and on a soft toothbrush. It will remove all the soap film, hand lotion and assorted junk that may have accumulated. Scrub your ring trying to get the bristles in the recessed areas. If it is done on a weekly schedule it will take less than a minute to scrub, clean, rinse and wipe your ring for that clean sparkling look.
Do not soak the ring for more that 10 to 15 minutes. Constant soaking overnight in the cleaning solution will corrode the alloys in the gold setting creating pits and make the prongs holding the gemstones weak. You may lose them if this happens.
Pearls, opals and emeralds should not be cleaned with the solution because it may damage these gemstones. Also DO NOT place pearls, opals or emeralds under a steam cleaner!
Professionals use a steam cleaner and an inventive customer began cleaning her ring with her expresso machine. Make sure you are using thongs and be very careful you do not burn yourself.
A clean, shiny ring will garner a lot of attention. Clean it and then enjoy all the compliments!
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists, Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
Cheryl C. asks “How Do I Clean My Ring?”
Cheryl C. writes, “My ring looks gunky. It always gets like that. Maybe, it’s my hand lotion? How do I clean my ring?”
April 21, 2009
Resizing dilemma
Diane came into our office the other day. She had been referred to us by Carol, her hairdresser. Diane needed to have her ring resized because her knuckles were getting larger from arthritis. Her concern was that if we were to resize her ring that it should not spin since the inside of her finger was smaller.
I explained to her that in extreme cases there are special bands that will expand or hinge to solve the problem. In her case it was just a half size difference which is not extreme. All we had to do for Diane was to resize the ring 3/4 size larger and install a ring guard to prevent the ring from spinning. She left her ring, happy that she had a solution that addressed her concerns.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists, Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
