September 8, 2009
Posted in Metals tagged Diamonds, 18k, hawaii, 14k, carats, karats at 7:22 am by diamonddude1
Leslie just asked what is the difference between carats and karats? Is it the same thing but with different spellings?
Carat is a weight designation. A one carat weight is 0.20 of a gram. Carat weight is the usual measurement of weight for gemstones.
Karat is usually a percentage designation for gold. Pure gold is 24 karats. If you divide 14 karats by 24 karats you get .583 which is the percentage of gold in 14 karats. 18 karats would be 75% and so on.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
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September 1, 2009
Posted in Metals at 4:58 pm by diamonddude1
Stephanie asked why she was getting a rash and itch from her white gold ring.
Her reaction could be due to a couple of causes. One is that she is allergic to the nickel alloy that is used primarily as the metal to make white gold. It has been said that there may be about 15% – 20% of the world’s population that has some degree of allergic reaction to nickel, some a lot worse than others.
One possible solution to this problem is to use a white gold that does not use nickel. There are white gold jewelry that uses other metals other than nickel to produce the white color although it is not as abundantly available.
Other alternatives are to plate the white gold with Rhodium that will help to insulate a person from the white gold. It is a relatively inexpensive fix. Re-plating with rhodium just has to be done periodically as necessary. Another option is that you can change your setting to platinum or palladium, both of which are hypo-allergenic.
The second possible cause of the rash could be a fungus infection because of the dampness under the ring that creates a condtion that is condusive to fungal growth. Anti- fungal creme will usually alleviate this problem.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
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August 31, 2009
Posted in Metals at 7:51 am by diamonddude1
John had asked out of curiosity what is sterling silver?
Sterling silver is silver that by composition is 92.5% silver and the rest are other metals alloys. Commonly copper is used as the alloy. Pure or fine silver 99.9% is much to soft to be used practically for jewelry purposes. Alloys are added to increase hardness and still allow malleability.
Other alloys used is the metal geranium, platinum and zinc which are primarily used to reduce tarnishing but also to improve silver’s workability.
Sterling silver can be identified by 925 stamped on the jewelry piece or the words Sterling Silver.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
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August 24, 2009
Posted in Metals, Mountings tagged Charm bracelets, Diamonds, gold silver, hawaii at 5:14 pm by diamonddude1
Julia recently came in to add another charm to her bracelet. It is an unscheduled ritual that every time she returns from a major trip she adds a new souvenir charm to her bracelet.
Some may think that charm bracelets are passe. For others it is a collection of important memories.
Some people have a charm bracelet that is a travelogue of their all the places that they have been to a wonderful reminder of the how big the world is.
Others have charm bracelets that are more personal in nature. They may have hearts with names of their children or grandchildren, charms of their pets, anything that has that personal connection to their memories.
Charm bracelets are any chain bracelet that has links that are large enough to attach a charm. It can be made in gold, silver or even in metal that is not precious.
Charm bracelets are endearing for the things that it represents to the owner. It is an accumulation of all the things we should be grateful for.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
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August 20, 2009
Posted in Diamonds, Metals tagged ceramic, Diamonds, Gemstones, gold, hawaii, mokume, palladium, platinum, ring designs, silver, stainless steel, titanium, Tungsten, wedding bands at 7:04 am by diamonddude1
Chad came in looking for a wedding band and was astounded by the choices set before him. Men’s wedding bands were seen as kind of an afterthought. There are innumerable ring choices for women, but men, until recently were left out of having as many choices.
Now there are a greater number of choices in materials that are not the traditional choices of gold, silver and platinum.
Men now have other metal choices such as tungsten, titanium, palladium, stainless steel, and ceramic. There are even combination of these different materials to create even more ring designs like mokume. Diamonds and gemstones can even be added for more bling.
It may actually be difficult now to choose a ring because there are simply too many choices, but having choice is much better than having none. Enjoy the quest.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
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August 5, 2009
Posted in Metals, Mountings tagged Diamonds, gold, hawaii, rings at 10:05 am by diamonddude1
This question was asked by Lacey and it is not as simple as it seems.
The short and sweet answer would have been that the best value would have been the lowest price per gram for what ever karatage gold you were interested in.
What makes this answer difficult is that value is not just based on weight alone. The design factor has to be taken in account along with the labor cost to make it and the personal aesthetic choices of the person.
Some rings are more intricate in design and takes longer to make. Some are made by machines but it has to be programed, manned and the cost of the machine becomes part of the cost of the product.
One of a kind custom design rings may cost more because of its uniqueness. Designer rings are exclusive designs whose value may be based on the personal appeal of the buyer.
The long answer is that if you take everything in account based on the weight of the ring and its design and your personal appreciation of it, thenThe best value is the one that you feel for what you paid is the one that makes you feel the happiest even if it is not the least expensive one.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
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June 25, 2009
Posted in Metals, Mountings tagged 14k white gold, Diamonds, gold, hawaii, palladium, platinum, silver at 5:06 pm by diamonddude1
Several times a week we have customers wanting a new setting in a white metal and intuitively ask about the differences between Platinum and white gold.
Many do not know that there is a third alternative if you do not count silver. That alternative is palladium. What is palladium you ask?
In an earlier reply to a question about palladium on this blog, it was explained that palladium is a metal in the platinum family that is hypoallergenic like platinum, a white metal very similar to platinum. It is 10% harder than platinum making it more scratch resistant that allows it to stay shinier longer. It is also less dense and lighter than platinum, making it about the same weight as 14k gold but considerably less expensive than platinum. Its cost is similar to 14k white gold.
As mentioned palladium makes a good alternative for those wanting a metal whiter than white gold, that is harder than platinum which also costs less.
So, now, you ask what does it look like compared to the other whiter metals.
The following picture is from left to right, silver, 14k white gold, platinum and palladium.
If Palladium appeals to you, ask your jeweler to show it to you, it may just be what you are looking for.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
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June 23, 2009
Posted in Maintenance and Repairs, Metals tagged 14k, chain repair, Diamonds, gold, hawaii at 7:26 am by diamonddude1
Monica brought in her favorite 14k gold rope chain that she wears everyday. It was recently repaired at another store and she was unhappy with the way it turned out. The repaired spot was very obvious, it was an unsightly glob.
We told her that it was a not a good repair job. A proper repair was one that visually you could not tell where it was repaired and the only way you could detect it was to run your fingers along the chain to feel the slightly stiff spot where the chain was repaired.
We took it in for repair and when she returned to pick it up was very happy to have her beautiful chain back looking like new with no evidence of the glob.
Russell Oshita
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
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May 22, 2009
Posted in Maintenance and Repairs, Metals at 10:25 am by diamonddude1
Linda came in asking how does she clean her silver jewelry to take off the tarnish.
The jewelry she had were some chains and rings and they were turning black. This was a result of silver oxidizing or commonly known as tarnish.
To get the tarnish off you can just purchase silver cleaner from the drugstore. Longs has several brands available. Some of them are just cleaners and will just remove the black tarnish. It is usually in liquid form. These will not make the silver shiny.
Others are polishers that will remove the tarnish and polish the silver. These are usually in paste or semi-liquid form. These may not remover the tarnish in the recessed areas but will make the silver shiny.
To get a brand new just bought look it is best to take it to a professional jeweler who will take out all the dents and scratches, remove the tarnish and polish the jewelry to a high shine.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists, Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
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May 21, 2009
Posted in Maintenance and Repairs, Metals, Mountings at 10:29 am by diamonddude1
Joan had asked if we could check and clean her diamond ring even though she did not buy it from us. We told her it was not a problem. She also asked why her white gold ring was turning yellow and what can she do about it.
Upon inspection we found that it was an 18k white gold ring that was originally plated with Rhodium.
We explained to her that gold is yellow and pure gold is 24k. Eighteen karat gold is eighteen parts out of twenty four which make the gold content 75% the rest is white metals primarily nickel, palladium and zinc. That would mean that the majority of the metal is yellow. The whiter metals will dilute the yellow color a bit but still leave it with a tinge of yellow.
Joan’s ring was rhodium plated which covered the white gold and made it look whiter. Rhodium is a metal in the platinum family and is white in color, but as plating it is just a surface covering and is eventually is worn off exposing the yellowish tinge of the white gold.
We told her that she can have it periodically re-plated, the frequency dependent on how active she is, possibly every year or two. She could also have it remade in platinum or palladium, other white metals, never having to worry about color changing or plating.
She decided to have it re-plated and to make it in platinum or palladium when she was ready to change the style of the ring, maybe in a year or two.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists, Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
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May 16, 2009
Posted in Maintenance and Repairs, Metals at 10:33 am by diamonddude1
John came in yesterday and brought in a couple of Hawaiian Jewelry bracelets. They both appeared darker, one noticeably more than the other. He questioned if this was real gold because it is the first time he has seen this happen. He has other 14k yellow gold jewelry but it did not look as dark as these bracelets.
We told him that it was not a problem he should worry about. We explained that 14k gold jewelry will get darker if it sits and is not worn.
He bought these bracelets several years ago to give his granddaughters when they turn sixteen. They are only nine and seven. These bracelets were in storage.
When jewelry is worn it does not have a chance to tarnish because it constantly is in contact with clothes and other objects.
The alloys in the gold, primarily the copper in the alloy will tarnish and make the gold appear darker. It is a surface color change and can easily be removed by polishing it. His bracelets were polished, restoring it to its normal color and given back to him. All’s well again.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists, Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
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May 7, 2009
Posted in Maintenance and Repairs, Metals, Mountings at 10:41 am by diamonddude1
Michele came in today to resize her diamond ring. As standard take-in procedure we started to document the details of the ring on a receipt. A plotting was made for diamond for identification. Its size was recorded. The side diamonds were also counted and listed on the receipt.
Upon further inspection with a magnifier we noticed that the base of the prongs that was holding the one carat diamond had a crack running all around it. It was not visible to the naked eye. If this was left as it was it would have been just a matter of time before the prongs broke off and diamond would have been lost.
It is essential to have your ring professionally inspected periodically to prevent these types of disastrous consequences.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists, Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
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April 29, 2009
Posted in Metals, Mountings at 6:53 pm by diamonddude1
Susan A. sent an email saying, “I wanted a platinum ring but platinum is very expensive. I’ve heard of Palladium—what is it? How is it like platinum? How is it different? Is it less expensive?”
This is the answer:
Palladium is a metal in the Platinum family and therefore it is a white metal. It is slightlydarker than platinum but most people do not see much of a difference.
Palladium like platinum is hypoallergenic so no one should be allergic to it.
Palladium is also 10% harder making it more scratch resistant than platinum so it will stay shinier longer.
Palladium also costs less than Platinum. It is a little harder to work with so labor is a bit more but the total cost is about the same as a 14k gold jewelry piece. If piece of jewelry made in Platinum were to cost $2,000 then the same piece made in Palladium will cost about $800.
Palladium is a great choice. It is whiter than white gold and harder and much less expensive than Platinum.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists, Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
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Posted in Metals, Mountings at 10:55 am by diamonddude1
Susan A. sent an email saying, “I wanted a platinum ring but platinum is very expensive. I’ve heard of Palladium—what is it? How is it like platinum? How is it different? Is it less expensive?”
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April 25, 2009
Posted in Metals, Mountings at 10:57 am by diamonddude1
We were recently asked what kinds of rings were the most popular with men.
We would respond by saying that 50 – 60% of the mens rings orders we get is for a tungsten band. Tungsten is by far the most durable mens band available. If you were to drag the ring across a concrete sidewalk it will not scratch.
Tungsten is an industrial metal usually used for drill and saw tips because of its hardness. It can chip or crack and some companies will replace it for no charge. It has a gunmetal gray shade that appeals to mens sense of color.
It is relatively inexpensive. Depending on the brand and the store that is selling it most tungsten rings will cost between $150 and $600.
If you are interested in a ring that is decidedly masculine in hardness, and color then Tungsten is definitely the ring for you.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists, Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
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