August 24, 2009
The Charm of Charm Bracelets
Julia recently came in to add another charm to her bracelet. It is an unscheduled ritual that every time she returns from a major trip she adds a new souvenir charm to her bracelet.
Some may think that charm bracelets are passe. For others it is a collection of important memories.
Some people have a charm bracelet that is a travelogue of their all the places that they have been to a wonderful reminder of the how big the world is.
Others have charm bracelets that are more personal in nature. They may have hearts with names of their children or grandchildren, charms of their pets, anything that has that personal connection to their memories.
Charm bracelets are any chain bracelet that has links that are large enough to attach a charm. It can be made in gold, silver or even in metal that is not precious.
Charm bracelets are endearing for the things that it represents to the owner. It is an accumulation of all the things we should be grateful for.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
July 31, 2009
The Amazing Aid of Computers For Making Jewelry
CAD, CAM, Computer Aided Design and Computer Aided Manufacture, are amazing tools to making fine jewelry.
What was once impossible or nearly impossible or took a great master craftsman to create is now made possible with the aid of computers.
A design is created on the computer and a rendering is generated. You can make adjustments and changes to the rendering.
Once the rendering is accepted a three dimensional wax model is made from the computer rendering. You can now inspect it in life size. changes can be also made at this stage.
If the wax is approved it is then cast and finished.
If someone told you the design of your dreams was impossible, look into finding some one that can help you with the aid of a computer. You can have that beautiful one of a kind jewelry you always wanted.
computer rendering
Finished diamond ring
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
July 23, 2009
The Most Secure Chain Clasps
Conventional chain clasps are spring rings and lobster clasps. Theydo the job sufficiently but will at some time fail to work properly. The spring ring is not as strong and if subjected to a strong yank will detach or break. Lobster clasps are stronger and can withstand harder pulls but occasionally the spring detaches and it no longer works.
Denise came in to have the clasp changed on her diamond pendant because the lobster clasp failed and she almost lost her pendant. The diamond pendant was sentimental and valuable and she wanted a more secure clasp for her peace of mind.
We presented her with three choices. These clasps may not be as pretty and can be cumbersome to operate but is definitely more secure.
Denise chose the slide lock clasp.
Spring and lobster clasps 
J Clasp
Slide lock 
Overlap clasp 
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
July 17, 2009
The Fragileness of Invisible Set Round Diamonds
Susan approached us with a repair job. One of the side diamonds on her tanzanite ring was missing and she needed to have it replaced.
When we examined it closely we noticed that it was an invisible set round diamond that was missing. It is called invisible set because the diamond appears to be floating with no apparent appendages like prongs to hold it in place.
While this is aesthetically interesting and pleasing to look at it is not the most practical way to set a diamond. To set it tiny grooves are cut under the girdle of the diamond. The metal is then pushed into these grooves to secure it in place.
The problem occurs when it is worn and banged around a little, these tiny grooves are not deep enough to hold it very securely and many of them eventually fall out.
For Susan we are going to remove the diamonds and bezel set them. Bezel setting is one of the most secure ways of setting a diamond that will also still look similar in appearance to the invisi
ble set style using the same tube structure.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
July 11, 2009
Share and Share Alike
Julie had inherited her mother’s ring. It was an antique-looking simple diamond ring that her mother received from her grandmother. The problem was that her two sisters also loved that ring.
There were a close family and squabbles were few. They had thought about taking turns using it but they had lived states apart and sharing it was not a convenient option.
They explained their problem to us and asked if we could help them. We told them we could mold and duplicate the ring so each could have a ring. It may have not all been the original but it was the next best thing.
They were delighted with the prospect and we made each one a duplicate. The original was held in a deposit box to be inherited by the last surviving sister.
As they were equally loved they each shared equally in memory.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
July 2, 2009
Diamond Earrings Badly Misrepresented
Integrity is an important consideration in any business and we try very hard to uphold it in our industry, by educating our customers and disclosing all pertinent information on any jewelry piece.
From this perspective it is appalling to see what some jewelers in our industry do.
Matt’s girlfriend had just purchased a pair of diamond hoop earrings from a downtown jewelry store and he was interested to know the quality of the diamonds so he brought it to us.
We counted 34 diamonds in each hoop earring, each a 3 point diamond by measurement. This would make it a total of approximately 2.04 carats. The color grade looked to be about a J or K and through the microscope the clarity grade was in the I1-2 category.
Matt said that the diamond earrings were sold as 3 carats total weight, G color and SI clarity grade. This would have made it 1 carat more in weight 3-4 color grades off and 2-3 grades off in clarity.
They had paid $2500 for the earrings thinking it was 3 carats total weight, which would have been a reasonable price if the information was accurate. As a 2 carat total weight and lower color and clarity than represented, a reasonable price should have been $1500. They had over-paid by a $1000.
Unfortunately most consumers would assume that the seller is telling the truth and never get a second opinion. They may never know that they paid much more than they should. Nor that they did not even get the grade they thought they paid for.
We do not know how much of this goes on. The consumer without knowledge of jewelry quality is vulnerable to unscrupulous jewelers.
It may be best to gain at least a rudimentary knowledge of jewelry quality, get second opinions or just find a jeweler you can trust.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
June 25, 2009
What Does Palladium Look Like?
Several times a week we have customers wanting a new setting in a white metal and intuitively ask about the differences between Platinum and white gold.
Many do not know that there is a third alternative if you do not count silver. That alternative is palladium. What is palladium you ask?
In an earlier reply to a question about palladium on this blog, it was explained that palladium is a metal in the platinum family that is hypoallergenic like platinum, a white metal very similar to platinum. It is 10% harder than platinum making it more scratch resistant that allows it to stay shinier longer. It is also less dense and lighter than platinum, making it about the same weight as 14k gold but considerably less expensive than platinum. Its cost is similar to 14k white gold.
As mentioned palladium makes a good alternative for those wanting a metal whiter than white gold, that is harder than platinum which also costs less.
So, now, you ask what does it look like compared to the other whiter metals.
The following picture is from left to right, silver, 14k white gold, platinum and palladium.
If Palladium appeals to you, ask your jeweler to show it to you, it may just be what you are looking for.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
June 18, 2009
Blackened Engagement Ring
My fiancé gave me an engagement ring which needed to be resized. We brought it back to the store, and they said it would take a few days. On a Friday afternoon, the owner called me and asked how late would I be able to stop by, and I told him I would just pick it up late Saturday afternoon. I had the ring only a few days, and it started to tarnish. In one week, it was absolutely black – it looked like it was set in black nickel, even the prongs. I took the ring to a reputable jeweler, and she said she had never seen anything quite like it. There are chunks of bonding agent actually stuck in the gaps underneath the diamonds. The main diamond is very loose and can be turned with my fingers – you don’t even need tweezers, and there is still a rough spot in one of the baguettes. The jeweler said he had to remake the ring because the original size was so off, yet when I had it for the first week, it didn’t tarnish. I just want to take it back and go somewhere else. What is your take on this whole situation?
D. Fenley
Hi D,
It is a little difficult to answer your question at the moment because I need to get a little bit more information to properly help you.
Where do you live? It would be easier if you lived in Hawaii and brought the ring to us to inspect. If not there are some questions that you can help me with. Possibly send us a picture of the ring.
Could you tell me what kind of metal is used to make the ring?
Why was the ring remade instead of resizing? Was the original size far off from your ring size?
Did the jeweler explain why “bonding agent” used?
If the jeweler that did the resize is the one that sold you the ring you should not have a problem returning the ring.
Your answers will help me to better understand your exact situation.
Russell Oshita, the diammonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc
Diamonds Hawaii
Hi, Russell. I appreciate the prompt response. Nick had purchased the ring from Charleston Gold & Diamond. They had resized the ring three times. When we got it back the last time, it tarnished within a few days. You could also hear that the diamond was so loose in the head that I could turn it with my fingertips and you could see it move at least 1/8”. The store rep claimed that they had ‘a bad batch of rhodium.’ I took the ring to another jeweler for examination, and she told me that they, too, have had that experience, but that it happens immediately. There were lumps of bonding gold stuck in the ring underneath the diamond, the ring isn’t even symmetrical to the naked eye, and there is a chip out of one of the baguettes that you can feel with your fingertip. I believe the ring is made of 14k gold with a .93 ct VS1 H diamond. I think they charged him around $6700. The original size of the ring was a 4.0, then he told them a 5.0. I took it in for resizing, which they claim they did. I asked them for cleats inside the band, as I have broken that finger and the knuckle is larger; this prevents the diamond from sliding around to the back. The jeweler insisted that I didn’t need it, and I don’t remember the new size – I think it’s a 6.5 and still doesn’t fit properly.
We took the ring back and just asked for our money back. It’s very, very poor quality in workmanship, not even apprentice work. They agreed to swap out the diamond for a new one (I don’t particularly care for solitaires) and refund him the cost of his ring. I will send you a photo of the ring. Let me know what you think.
We will be taking the new loose diamond to Paula Harrison in Mt. Pleasant, SC – she is a very good friend of mine and a jeweler with the highest reputation. Let me know what you think of the ring…
I appreciate your help,
Best regards,
D. Fenley
PS: Pictures to follow separately.
Hi D.
I am glad you were able to resolve your problem and you did not have to keep the ring. I am still very interested in seeing the pictures of the ring.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
June 17, 2009
A Very Valuable Jade Ring
Jade is difficult to evaluate because there are so many enhancement techniques, such as dyeing, and resin filling, not to mention that there are hundreds of simulants, stones that look like jade but are not jade.
Based on this knowledge it was interesting when Nicole came in with a jade ring to ask what it may be worth. She said that she was planning to give it to a friend and wanted to know what she was giving.
The ring was inherited from her grandmother and she thought it was ugly. The jade was about 3/4″ in length and a 1/4″ in width. It was rectangular in shape and shaped with a ridge going across the top. It was not a very nice looking shape.
The ring was in 14K white gold old-fashioned design. Also not very pretty.
The color of the jade on the other hand looked fantastic. It was a beautiful apple green color and shiny as hard candy.
We told her that by the look of the jade she may want to reconsider giving it away for the jade may be worth a lot. We suggested she get an appraisal for confirmation from a gemologist.
She took our advice and had an appraisal done. What she found out astounded her. The jade, it appears, would be valued between $10,000 to $20,000, depending on the whether it was sold in the West or the East because orientals would place a different value on it than westerners.
Needless to say she kept the ring.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
June 12, 2009
Pendant Enhancers Offers Flexibility
Susie wanted to wear her ruby pendant with her pearl necklace and as a standard pendant on a chain without making either one looking out of place.
Fortunately there is a pendant enhancer that opens up to fit between pearls when mounted on the necklace. It will also fit on a regular chain to wear as a normal pendant.
The pendant enhancers are wonderful accessories that allows the flexiblity of being used for different purposes and looks. They help bridge the best of both worlds.
Russell Oshita
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
June 6, 2009
A Poor Job of Resizing a Ring
Julie had bought a diamond engagement ring from another store and had them resize it. She brought it in to us because the store that resized it said they could not make it better. Wearing the ring was very uncomfortable.
After taking a look at the ring we noticed that it was oval in shape. The ring looked like the bottom of it was just flattened and the sides of the ring bothered the fingers next to the ring. It looked uncomfortable.
In Hawaii people on average are smaller and ring sizes average about a size 5. Most rings are made in a standard size 6-7. Julie was a 4 1/2.
The ring was made oval because of the diamonds set on the side of the center diamond. Resizing the ring smaller would sometimes loosen the diamonds and they would fall out. The jeweler that originally resized it did not want to deal with the side diamonds and did not work on resizing it properly.
Our jeweler was able to make the ring round and re-tighten the diamonds on the side.
It is now comfortable, beautiful and appreciated. All is well in the world.
Russell Oshita, the diamondude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
May 26, 2009
Intricate Custom Ring Designs Possible
Custom Design
Carolyn had wanted a very personal, uniquely designed diamond ring made, one that was intricate and delicate. She had not yet found anyone that could do it when she walked into our store.
The modern usage of the computer and accompanying equipment makes possible producing very intricate and fragile mountings. Almost anything is possible.
With a picture, sketch or idea a computer rendering can be made of the jewelry piece. With the customers approval a wax model of the jewelry piece can be made and viewed in a 3-D form in its actual size. If the customer accepts the wax model, it is cast, stones are set and the ring is polished. Done!
Carolyn’s anniversary band commemorated her wedding date July 7, 2007.
Russell, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
May 19, 2009
Thank Goodness for Ring Guards
Agnes came into our store to have her diamond ring cut off her finger. It was not that it was tight but she had developed arthritis and her knuckle became larger where the ring would not come off. She was concerned that after we re-sized her ring to go over her knuckle it will be too loose and spin a lot.
We suggested several alternatives. Fortunately the size difference between her knuckle and the inside of her finger was not a great deal of difference, just about a 3/4 size difference. For her we suggested using a ring guard. It is a clip-like piece of metal that acts as a spring inside the ring and will take up the looseness once it passes the knuckle.
In extreme cases we recommend a special hinged band that opens up to go past the knuckle and locks to the proper size with no looseness.
Ring guards make for a more comfortable fit and works very well for the people that really need it. Agnes was happy that there was a solution for her problem because she still enjoys wearing her diamond ring.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude 
The Diamond Specialists, Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
May 7, 2009
HAVE YOUR RING INSPECTED
Michele came in today to resize her diamond ring. As standard take-in procedure we started to document the details of the ring on a receipt. A plotting was made for diamond for identification. Its size was recorded. The side diamonds were also counted and listed on the receipt.
Upon further inspection with a magnifier we noticed that the base of the prongs that was holding the one carat diamond had a crack running all around it. It was not visible to the naked eye. If this was left as it was it would have been just a matter of time before the prongs broke off and diamond would have been lost.
It is essential to have your ring professionally inspected periodically to prevent these types of disastrous consequences.
Russell Oshita, the diamonddude
The Diamond Specialists, Inc.
Diamonds Hawaii
